Hyaluronic Acid – Skincare’s Most Popular Ingredient

No ingredient has a hold on the skincare market quite like hyaluronic acid. As we age, the production of key substances in the skin, including hyaluronic acid, along with collagen and elastin, decreases.

No ingredient has a hold on the skincare market quite like hyaluronic acid. As we age, the production of key substances in the skin, including hyaluronic acid, along with collagen and elastin, decreases as seen in Figure 1. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an important component of the extracellular matrix, with loss starting at 25 years of age. As a result, the skin loses volume, hydration, and plumpness.1

Figure 1 Levels of Hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin with aging.2

The human skin aging phenomenon is a complex biological process. Skin aging occurs as a result of two biologically independent processes. The first is an intrinsic or innate, and unpreventable process and the second is an extrinsic aging process. Intrinsic skin aging is influenced by hormonal changes which occur with age.4 The extrinsic process is a result of exposure to external factors which include ultraviolet (UV) irradiation which is commonly refereed to as photoaging.3 Photoaging affects all skin compartments – with the majority of HA found in the dermal layer as well as the epidermis.7 The epidermis consists of keratinocytes which form the stratum corneum, with melanocytes interspersed in the basal layer. The dermis predominantly comprises the extracellular matrix (ECM), which is made up of collagen and elastic fibres, proteoglycans, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Recent research has appreciated that the ECM molecules which lie between the cells provide not only a constructive framework but also exert effects on the cellular function. ECM molecules form a highly organised structure. The predominant component of the skin ECM is HA.6 The loss of skin moisture is associated with skin aging. One of the most important molecules involved is hyaluronic acid (HA). HA is a unique GAG with a capacity to bind and retain water molecules.5 HA belongs to the ECM molecules. Unlike the other GAGs – HA is non-sulphated and occurs is various configurations and shapes, depending on size, salt concentration, pH and associated cations.8,9 HA, with its simple structure, exhibits many biological functions that depend on size and result from their interaction with certain binding proteins (“hyaladerins”) and surface receptors. HA is able to bind to three main classes of cell surface receptors: (1) CD44 (a membrane glycoprotein), (2) receptor for hyaluronate-mediated motility (RHAMM), and (3) intercellular adhesion molecule 1 (ICAM-1), which perform different functions. CD44 is the most widely distributed cell surface receptor recognised for HA binding. It regulates cell adhesion, migration, lymphocyte activation and homing, and cancer metastasis. Transforming growth factor (TGF)-β1 stimulates cell motility, elicits the synthesis and expression of RHAMM and HA – thus initiating cell locomotion. ICAM-1 is considered a metabolic cell surface receptor for HA. This supramolecule is responsible for the clearance of HA from body fluid and plasma that accounts for most of its turnover in the whole body. In addition, ICAM-1 may function as a cell adhesion molecule, and the binding of HA to ICAM-1 ultimately allows the regulating ICAM-1-mediated inflammatory activation.8,9

The size of HA molecules plays an important role in the permeability of the molecule as this relates to the molecular weight. High-molecular-weight (HMW) HA has a limited permeability through the skin and thus remains on the surface of the skin – forming a thin protective hydration layer. Low-molecular-weight (LMW) HA is able to permeate the stratum corneum, the epidermis as well as the deeper dermal layers as seen in Figure 2.8-10 

Figure 2 Skin permeability of hyaluronic acid with various molecular weights.1 

Hydration of the skin is key in the maintenance of an optimal skin barrier both in aesthetic dermatology and in pathological skin diseases. The hydration levels of the skin depend largely on the HA-bound water in the dermis as well as the vital area of the epidermis.8 HA is a hygroscopic molecule with the ability to bind 1000 times its volume in water. This strong water absorption property allows for the hydration of both the stratum corneum and the dermis. HA is classified as a humectant moisturiser as it draws water from the dermis to the epidermis.8-10 HA molecules within the dermis regulate the water balance, osmotic pressure, ion flow, functioning as a sieve to exclude specific molecules which enhance the extracellular domain of the cell surface while stabilising the skin structures by electrostatic interactions. The most dramatic change in the process of skin aging is observed as the marked reduction of HA at the epidermal layer as it shifts to the dermis.8 This allows the epidermis to loss HA molecules which are responsible for binding and retaining water – resulting in the loss of skin moisture. HA possesses unique healing properties making it an important tool in the treatment of acute wounds such as burns and postsurgical scars.11,12 HA increases the rate of wound healing.  

In today’s culture the maintenance of a youthful and aesthetically pleasing appearance is highly sought-after. Facial aging is a very complex and dynamic process – with all people aging differently. From dryness to smoothing out the appearance of wrinkles, HA does a lot to keep the skin looking and feeling healthy. HA has become one of the most crucial ingredients in the cosmetic as well as nutricosmetic products. dermaV Pharmaceuticals have developed a unique hydrating serum for everyday use as seen in Figure 3. 

Figure 3 dermaV Pharmaceuticals – DAILY CARE RANGE – DIAMOND HYALURONIC ACID SERUM.13

The dermaV DAILY CARE RANGE DIAMOND HYALURONIC ACID SERUM is uniquely formulated to contain sodium hyaluronate which is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. Sodium hyaluronate is synthesised to create a smaller molecular structure for stability and increased resistance to oxidation. Its smaller molecular structure and water solubility means that it can penetrate deeper into skin, providing intense hydration beyond the skin’s surface. The serum is co-formulated with fat soluble vitamin C and vitamin E. The HA is able to increase the valuable rejuvenating moisture levels in the skin giving it that dewier youthful look. Tightens and reduces fine lines and wrinkles. The vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis and assists in anti-oxidant protections against UV-induced photodamage, while vitamin E helps nourish and protect the skin from free radical damage making this the ultimate HA serum on the market.13 

References
  1. Bravo, B., Correia, P., Gonçalves, J.E., Sant’Anna, B. & Kerob, D. 2022. Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence. Dermatol Ther; 35(12):e15903. 
  2. Kanagasabai, T. 2020. Hyaluronic acid – What’s all the fuss about? Skin Enhance and Wellness. Available at: https://skinenhance.co.uk/hyaluronic-acid-whats-all-the-fuss-about/
  3. Brincat, M.P. 2009. Hormone replacement therapy and the skin. Androgens and aging of the skin. Curr Opin Endocrinol Diabetes Obes; 16:240-245.
  4. Makrantonaki, E., Adjaye, J., Herwig, R., Brink, T.C., Growth, D., Hultschig, C., et al. 2006. Age-specific hormonal decline is accompanied by transcriptional changes in human sebocytes in vitro. Aging Cell; 5:331-344.
  5. Baumann, L. 2007. Skin ageing and its treatment. J Pathol; 211:241-251.
  6. Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M. & Karakiulakis, G. 2012. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol; 4(3):253-258.
  7. Krutmann, J., Bouloc, A., Sore, G., Bernard, B.A. & Passeron, T. 2017. The skin aging exposome. J Dermatol Sci; 85(3):152-161.
  8. Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M. & Karakiulakis, G. 2012. Hyaluronic acid. A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology; 4(3):253-258. 
  9. Vasvani, S., Kulkarni, P. & Rawtani, D. 2020. Hyaluronic acid: a review on its biology, aspects of drug delivery, route of administrations and a special emphasis on its approved marketed products and recent clinical studies. Int J Biol Macromol; 151:1012-1029.
  10. Zhu, J., Tang, X., Jia, Y., Ho, C.T. & Huang, Q. 2020. Applications and delivery mechanisms of hyaluronic acid used for topical/transdermal delivery – a review. Int J Pharm; 578:119127.
  11. Longinotti, C. 2014.The use of hyaluronic acid-based dressings to treat burns: a review. Burns Trauma; 2(4):162-168. 
  12. Voigt, J. & Driver, V.R. 2012. Hyaluronic acid derivatives and their healing effect on burns, epithelial surgical wounds, and chronic wounds: a systematic review and meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials. Wound Repair Regen; 20(3):317-331.
  13. Data on File. 2024. dermaV Pharmaceuticals (Pty) Ltd.